Sewing machine



J. H. PlKUL.

SEWING MACHINE Nov. 19, 1935.

4 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Oct. 27, 1954 lnvenTo'r.

\Jo'seph'H. Pi Kui WMJIW ATTys.

Nov. 19, 1935. J..H. PIKUL 2,021,636

SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 27, 1934 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 InvenTor.

Joseph H. PiKul WWMJIW AUys Nov. 19, 1935. J. H. PIKUL SEWING MACHINEFiled Oct. 27, 1954 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 lnvenTor. Joseph H.| iKu| 1 m MkW IA1 Tys.

Nov. 19, 1935. J, u 2,021,636

SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 2'7, 1934 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 Fig.4.

i nvnTor. U oseph H. PiKul b igmwwkf Patented Nov. 19, 1935 PATENTOFFICE SEWING MACHINE Joseph H. Pikul, Boston, Mass, 'assignor to The.

Reece Button Hole Machine Company, Boston, Mass., a corporation of MaineApplication October 27, 1934, Serial No. 750,335

11 Claims.

This invention relates to sewing machines of the buttonhole type andespecially to a sewing machine designed to sew imitation buttonholes.

In making some garments it is customary to sew buttons on the garmentsat some points, such for instance as on the sleeve of a coat, for thepurpose of ornamenting or dressing up the garment, and sometimes it isdesirable to sew an imitation buttonhole (that is, a line of buttonholestitching simulating the stitching of a buttonhole but without thebuttonhole slit) on the garment at the point where the button isfastened, thereby to give the garment the appearance of being buttonedtogether at this point. Such imitation buttonholes are usually placed onthe garment adjacent a seam, and in making the garment the imitationbuttonhole is usually sewed in the fabric of the garment adjacent anedge thereof which subsequently is seamed up.

The sewing machine herein shown for sewing imitation buttonholes is insome respects similar to an ordinary buttonhole sewing machine, but ithas this difference, that while in a sewing machine for sewing regularbuttonholes the stitching usually begins at the end of the buttonholefurthest from the edge of the fabric and proceeds along one side of thebuttonhole toward the edge of the fabric and then around the end of thebuttonhole adjacent the edge and then back to the starting point, in thedevice of the present application the machine is arranged so that thestitching begins at the .endsof the imitation buttonhole adjacent theedge of the fabric and then proceeds along one side of the imitationbuttonhole in a direction away from the edge of the fabric and aroundthe end of the imitation buttonhole furthest from the edge of the fabricand then proceeds back to the starting point.

The machine herein shown is also similar to a buttonhole machine forsewing regular buttonholes in that in both cases the fabric isplaced inthe sewing machine with the edge thereof adjacent which the buttonholeis tobe sewed directed away from the operator or toward the back of themachine, but there is this further difference that while in sewing aregular buttonhole the relative feeding movement between thestitchforming mechanism and work-holding means is first away from theoperator toward the rear of the machine and toward the edge of thefabric while sewing on the first side of the buttonhole and then istoward the operator and toward the front of the machine and away fromthe edge of the fabric during the sewing .on the second side of thebuttonhole, in sewing the imitation buttonhole by the machine embodyingthe present invention the relative feeding movement between thestitch-forming mechanism and work-holding means is first in a directionaway from the edgeor toward the operator and the front of the ma- 5chine for sewing the stitches on the first side of the imitationbuttonhole, and after the stitching has been carried around the end ofthe imitation buttonhole adjacent the operator the relative feedingmovement is then in a reverse direction 10 away from the operator andtoward the rear of the machine to carry the stitches along thesecondside of the imitation buttonhole to the starting point.

The sewing machine herein illustrated is similar 15 to that type ofbuttonhole-sewing machine in which the under thread mechanism is in theform of oscillatory loopers and with this type of sewing machine thestitch-forming mechanism comes to rest at the end of the sewingoperation 20 on a buttonhole with the needle raised and with a loop ofneedle thread caught on the loopers.

In the machine of this application a construction is employed by whichafter the stitch-forming mechanism comes to rest at the end of a 25sewing operation, said stitch-forming mechanism and work-holding meansare given a relative movement in a direction away from the edge of thefabric, or in the same direction as the feeding movement during thesewing on the first side 30 of the imitation buttonhole, of suificientextent to cause the upper thread to be broken at the last stitch, andafter the thread has been broken the stitch-forming mechanism andwork-holding means are given a reverse relative movement toward the edgeof the fabric or in the same direction as the feeding movement duringthe sewing on the second side of the buttonhole thereby to bring theparts to stopping position.

In order to give an understanding of the invention I have illustrated inthe drawings a selected embodiment thereof which will now be describedafter which the novel features will be pointed out in the appendedclaims.

Fig. 1 is a side View of a sewing machine embodying the invention;

Fig. 2 is a view of said machine looking from the opposite side fromthat shown in Fig. 1 and with the parts broken out;

Fig. 3 is a section on the line 33, Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a view of a portion of a fabric showing the imitationbuttonhole sewed therein;

Fig. 5 is a view of an imitation buttonhole and also showing the path ofthe needle in forming 55 the stitches and in breaking the thread at theend of the sewing;

Fig. 6 is a diagrammatic view illustrating the needle path;

Fig. '7 is a fragmentary view showing the operation of the upper threadpull-off;

- Fig. 8 is a fragmentary plan view of the upper thread pull-off;

Fig. 9 is a fragmentary View of the clutchcontrolling lever;

Before describing the machine herein illustrated I will refer to Figs.4, 5 and 6 which show the character of the stitching which is made bythe machine.

In Fig. 4, 2 indicates a piece of fabric which may be the portion of thesleeve of a coat, in which is formed two imitation buttonholes shown at13, each buttonhole having a line of stitching 10 along one side and asecond line of stitching H along the other side thereof, the stitchingex tending around the end 76 of the buttonhole furthest from the edge 12of the fabric. This imitation buttonhole has the square end 15 nearestthe edge !2 and the rounded end 76 furthest from said edge. 14 indicatethe buttons which are sewed to the garment at the imitation buttonhole,and said buttons are usually sewed to the square ends 75 thereof. Fig. 4shows one button in full lines with the corresponding buttonhole partlyhidden and the other button in dotted lines with the imitationbuttonhole shown in full.

The sewing machine herein shown is similar to that type of buttonholesewing machine in which the work is held on a stationary work frame andthe stitch-forming mechanism is carried in a stitch frame movablymounted on the work frame.

In the drawings 1 indicates the bed frame or work frame to which thework 2 is clamped by means of suitable Work clamps 3 pivoted to the bedframe at 4.

The stitch-forming mechanism is carried by a stitch frame indicated at5. This frame is formed with the usual overhanging arm 6 in whichreciprocates a needle bar '5 carrying the needle 8 which controls theupper thread 9, and said stitch frame is also provided with the underportion ID in Which is rotatably mounted a turret II that carries underthread mechanism, preferably in the form of oscillatory loopers, andwhich also supports the usual throat plate l2.

The stitch-forming mechanism is operated in usual manner by the stitchshaft l3 which is carried by the stitch frame 5 and is driven by adriving pulley 4|. The stitch frame is moved back and forth on the bedframe or work frame I by means of a main cam I4 which is received in acam housing 15 formed in the lower portion I!) of the stitch frame.

The connections by which the rotation of the cam [4 produces the backand forth feeding movement of the stitch frame are similar to thatusually found in buttonhole sewing machines of this type in that itcomprises a stud l6 rigid with and depending from the stationary bedframe I and operating in a cam groove l1 formed in the cam I l.

The movements given to the stitch frame by the cam I4 comprise first amovement from starting position to stitching position and then a feedingmovement lengthwise of the imitation buttonhole first in one directionand then in the other to form the stitches along opposite sides of saidimitation buttonhole and to bring the stitch frame back to the positionwhere the stitching began, at which point the stitch-forming mechanismcomes to rest, and then a reverse movement from stitching position,during which the upper thread is broken at the last stitch, and 5finally a movement back to starting position.

The stitch-forming mechanism is turnable about a vertical axis toprovide for sewing around the end of the buttonhole and the usual meansare provided for giving such turning movement, 10 such means comprisinga rock shaft l8 which is actuated by the main cam l4, and which has fastthereon gear segments I9, 20 meshing with gears 2|, 22 formed on theturret and on the needle bar mechanism respectively. 15

The usual means are provided for rotating the main cam, such means beinga shaft 23 having a worm 24 thereon meshing with worm teeth formed onthe periphery of the cam I4.

The shaft 23 has loose thereon a combined 20 driving pulley and clutchmember 25 by which the shaft is rotated when the machine is set inoperation and while the parts are moving from starting position tostitching position. When the stitching position has been reached thestitch 25 shaft I3 is set in operation thereby actuating the stitchingmechanism and the rotation of the shaft 23 is then derived from thestitch shaft I3. After the stitching has been completed the stitch shaftcomes to rest and the pulley 25 is again 30 clutched to the shaft 23 torotate the shaft and give the cam [4 the necessary movement to carry theparts from stitching position to threadbreaking position and then backto starting posi tion. 35 The means for clutching the pulley 25 to theshaft 23 is such as is usually found in buttonhole sewing machines ofthis type. This pulley is mounted on a sleeve 26 which is slidable onthe shaft 23 and is provided .with a clutch dog 21 4 the stitch frame at3| 0 and which has an arm 45 32 that is connected to a collar 33operating in a groove in the sleeve 26. This clutch-controlling member30 is acted on by the spring 3| which tends to move it in acounter-clockwise direction Fig. 3, which movement will shift the sleeveup- 50 wardly, Fig. 3, thereby clutching the pulley to the shaft 23. Theclutch-controlling lever 30 is held in the position shown in Fig. 3 byengagement with a projection 34 carried by a lever 35 pivoted at 35 onthe under side of the bed frame I. 55 The outer end of this lever isprovided with an extension 31 which is adapted to be engaged by the tail38 of the usual starting lever 39, the latter being pivoted to the bedframe at 40.

When the starting lever is depressed the tail 50 38 is disengaged fromthe extension 3'! thereby freeing the lever 35 and the spring 3| thenacts to swing the clutch-controlling lever 30 into the dotted lineposition Fig. 3 and cause the pulley 25 to be clutched to the shaft 23.This is the 5 construction usually found in buttonhole sewing machinesof this type.

The sewing machine herein shown is also provided with the usual meansfor disconnecting the pulley 25 from the shaft 23 and setting the stitchshaft l3 in operation when the parts have been shifted from startingposition to stitching position. The stitch shaft I 3 is driven by theusual driving pulley 4| which is clutched to the stitch shaft at theproper time by means of the 75 -2,o21';e3e

1 usual :cmtch do azi pivoted-st ls onedisk"- 44' fast on the shaft l3.

Ffg. --2 showsthe clutchdisengaged and with the tail 45 of the clutchdog engaging the-"stop 'proj'e'ction 46. When thence-projection "46 ismoved to the right into'the 'dotte'dline position Fig. 2' therebYto'disengage -it fiom the tail of the clutch dog, the-"latter will bethrown into operative position by the usual spring thereby clutching thepulley 4 l to "the Shaft l3 in the usual -way. This"stop'projection 46isca'rried f by"='a' rocking member '48, such as is commonly employed insewing 'machines of this type, and which is.pivotallymountedo-n thestitch frame at *49 and is formed 1 with the depending arm '50'andwivith a laterally-extending arm 5 l'. The lat- ""eral arm*5| isengaged by a thrust'pin 52 which extends through a slot in the bed frameI and co=operates with a stitch'cam53'carried' by the main cam l4.

' When' the stitch-formingmechanism is at rest the thrust 'pin 52 restson'the face'54 of'the main When the machine is started and =while theparts are moving from" starting position to stitching position the maincam 14 is turned in a clockwise-direction Fig. 3 and'when stitching po-5 sitio'n is reached the inclined face 55 of the cam 53 engages theunderside of the th'rust'pin 52 and forces the pin upwardly therebyrocking the lever 48 clockwisean'd disengaging the stop projection 46from the clutch dog 45. This will start the stitch-forming mechanism inoperation as will be understood by those familiar with buttonhole sewingmachines of this type.

Thestitch cam'53 is acurved cam whichfollows the peripheral shape ofthemain cam l4arid isof sufficient length to maintain the thrust pin 52'raised during the entire time that the stitching operationis beingperformed.

When the end 56 of the stitch cam passes out from under the thrust-pin52 the rocking'memloer '48 will'be given a counter-clockwise move- "endof the depending arm 50 is received.

When the starting lever is operated thereby releasing theclutch-controlling lever 30 and the latter is-shifted under theinfluence of the spring 3! into the dotted line position Fig. 3, whichshifting movement causes the driving'pulley' 25 to be clutched to theshaft -23 as above described,

the edge 60 of the opening 59 will be brought 'sub stantially intoengagement withthe lower end of the arm 50.

When the stitch cam 53 raises the thrust pin 52 and thereby rocks therocking member 48 to release the clutch dog 45 the correspondingswingingmovement of the arm 50 will by its engagement with the edge 60 of theopening 59 swing the clutch-controlling lever 30 into the position shownin Fig. 3 thereby disconnectingthe pulley 25 from the shaft. When thestitching'has been completed and thestitch mm 53 has passed out fromunder the thrust pin 52 thecounter-clo'ckstopping position.

"wisembv en'ient of the rocking-membe smile the arm' fill bywhich theclutchdog 45 is dis- '-en'gaged allows the clutch-controlling lever '30to 'svving into the dotted line position Fig. 3*under the influence ofthe'spring 3i thereby "again clutching the pulley 25 to the shaft 23softhajt the main cam will be'driven bythis rapid feed drive to'-'1novethe parts from stitching position to thread-breaking position and thenback into Figs. 1, Z'and 3 show the parts in' the position they takewhen the machine is brought to rest and 'just before it is started, theneedle atsuch time having the position indicated at a (see Figs. 1,2, '7and 8) "and the follower l6 occupying the po- "sition'in the cam grooveI'I shown in full lines The stitch frame 5 is then in itsrear- Fig. 3.most position.

The cam 14 rotates in a clockwise"vililrec'tion Fig. 3 andwhen themachine is startedhnd the clutch wheel 25 is clutched to the shaft '23,thereby to-g'ive said tam its initial'high fspeed movement, the'camwill,by itsfrotatio'n, shift the stitch "frame 5 forwardly tobriri'g theneedle from the position shown at 'a to the dotted line position b inFigs. 1 and 2, and to the bposition in Figs. 5 and 6, which is'theposition 'at "which the stitching starts. During this interval f'the camM has turned sufficiently so that the follower [6 has travelled from thestarting'po'sition a to approximately the position indicated at-b"in'Fig. 3. As the cam continues its'rotation the follower it travelsthrough the'portion of the cam groove from the point i) to cthereby-moving the stitch "frame '5 forwardly to carry the needle fromthe bposition to the 0 position during which time the stitches 19 alongthe first side of the imitation buttonhole are formed. When :the "0position has been reached the turret/and the stitch-forming mechanismare turned to sew around the end 15 of the imitation buttonhole andduringthe further continuedjurning movement of the cam the follower I5is caused to travel from the point c tothe -pOint-D thereby giving thestitch frame a backward movement to bring theneedle back from the 0position to the b-position againjdu'ri ng which'lrno'vement "the line ofstitching H on the other side of'the'imitation buttonhole is formed.

When the cam has turned so thatthe follower has travelled to the'point binthe groove l1 and the needle is in the 1) position the stitchir'fg hasbeen completed and the stitch-forming mechanism is brought to rest. Atthis time the-clutch wheel 25 is again clutched to the shaft 23 toproduce a rapid rotation of the'c'am M for the remainder of thebuttonhole cycle. 'During the further rotation of the cam the followerI5 is caused to travel through the portion of the cam groove between thepoint 17 in Fig. 3 and the point d, during which movement the stitchframe is given a second forward movement to carry the needle from the 12position to the d position. During this forward movement the upperthread is broken at the last stitch and this takes place becaus when thestitch-forming I mechanism "comes to "rest the needle will b'eraise'dand a-lo'o p of needle thread will be caught on the looper mechanism. Asthe stitch frame moves for"- wardly while the work is still clamped thestrain o-n'the loop of upper thread will be sufficient to cause saidthread to break where'it is bound into the last stitch.

The s ape of the can; giddt 11 between the points b and d is suchthat'the forward thread- Kit) ?breaking movement of the stitch frame isless than the forward sewing movement but is, however, sufiicient tocause the upper thread 9 to be broken. As the cam M completes itsrotative movement and the follower passes from the point d to thestarting point a, the stitch frame will be moved backwardiy again tocarry the needle from the d position through the b position, which isthe position at which the stitching starts and stops, to the stoppingposition indicated at a, 'and shown by full lines Fig. 3, at which timethe machine is brought to rest by the disengagement of the clutch wheel25 from the shaft 23. This final disengagement of the clutch wheel fromthe shaft to bring the machine to rest is produced by the co-operationof a cam surface 6| on the clutclncontrolling lever 3% with theprojection 34.

It will be understood that the clutch-controlling lever 38 is mounted onthe stitch frame and during the final backward movement of the stitchframe to bring the parts into the position shown in Figs. 1 and 2 thiscam surface 6! engages the projection 34 and thereby causes the lever 38to swing from the dotted to the full line position Fig. 3, such movementdisengaging the clutch wheel 25 from the shaft 23.

The breaking of the needle thread 9 at the last stitch leaves beneaththe work the length of thread which constituted the loop that was caughton the looper mechanism when the stitching mechanism was brought torest. The present invention provides an improved means for engaging theneedle thread between the needle and the work and withdrawing this endof needle thread from the work and holding it until the first stitch isformed on the next succeeding imitation buttonhole.

Buttonhole sewing machines are usually provided with buttonhole-cuttingmechanism including a cutter lever pivoted to the stitch frame andactuated by a cam projection formed on the main cam M thereby to cut thebuttonhole after the stitching has been completed. In the machineembodying the present invention the buttonhole cutter is omitted sinceit is desired not to out the buttonhole slit but the cutter lever onwhich the cutter element of the regular buttonhole sewing machine ismounted is made use of in the present invention as a means for mountingand operating a thread pull-off for the upper thread.

In the drawings 62 indicates a lever pivoted to the stitch frame 5 at63, said lever having a tail portion 64 adapted to be actuated by a campro- ,iection 65 that is carried by the main cam I4. This cam projectionoperates to rock the lever 62 from its raised inoperative position shownin Figs. 1 and 2 to its operative position shown in Fig. 7 and then torelease the lever and allow the spring 9! to return it to itsinoperative raised position between the time that the stitch frame ismoving from the position in which the stitching stops and the stoppingposition shown in full lines in the drawings. This movement of the lever62 is made use of to pull the end of the needle thread back through thework as stated above. For this purpose the lever arm 62 has a shortlever 66 pivoted thereto at 61, one end of said lever being pivoted at68 to one end of a link 69, the other end of which is pivoted to thestitch frame at 99. The outer end of the lever 66 is provided with alateral extension to which is pivoted at 8| a pull-off finger 82, thelatter having the hooked end portion 83. This pull-off finger normallyrests against a laterally-extending rest 84 with which the lever arm 62is provided and it is acted on by a spring 85 which holds it yieldinglyagainst the rest.

86 indicates a piece of felt which is secured to 5 the inner face of thefinger.

When the lever 62 is in its normal raised position shown in Figs. 1 and2 the pull-off finger 82 will be situated in the rear of the needle asshown in Fig. 1. When the lever arm 62 swings clock- 10 wise Fig. 1 intothe position shown in Fig. 7 the short lever 66 will be turned from theposition shown in Fig. 1 to that shown in Fig. '7 by the action of thelink 69 and this turning movement will throw the pull-01f finger 82forwardly a sufii- 15 cient distance to bring the hooked portion 83thereof in front of the thread 9. During this forward movement of thepull-oiT finger the hooked end-83 will wipe by the length of upperthread leading from the needle 8 to the work 2 2 thus bringing thethread into the position relative to the pull-off finger shown in Figs.'7 and 8. es the lever arm 62 swings back into its raised position thepull-off arm 82 will be given a backward movement during which theneedle thread 25 is caught by the hook 83 with the result that the endof the thread will be pulled free from the fabric. During this operationthe thread becomes wedged between the felt pad 86 and the hook as sothat the end of the thread will be 30 fiictionally held as shown in Fig.1.

I claim:

1. A sewing machine adapted to sew a short seam and then come to rest,said sewing machine having work-holding means, stitch-form- 35 ingmechanism including a needle, feeding means to give the work-holdingmeans and stitch-forming mechanism a relative feeding movement first inone direction and then in the opposite direction thereby to form twoparallel lines of stitches, and means to bring the stitch-formingmechanism to rest at the end of the movement in said opposite direction,said feeding means operating after the stitch-forming mechanism has cometo rest to give the work-holding means and stitch-forming 45 mechanism asuincient relative movement in the first-named direction to break thethread extending from the needle to the work, and then a return relativemovement to starting position.

2. A sewing machine adapted to sew a short seam and then come to rest,said sewing machine comprising work-holding means, stitchformingmechanism including a needle, feeding mechanism to give thestitch-forming mechanism a feeding movement relative to the workholdingmeans first in one direction and then in the opposite direction, therebyto form two parallel lines of stitches, and means to bring thestitch-forming mechanism to rest at the end of the movement in saidopposite direction, said feeding means operating after the stitch-forming mechanism has come to rest to give the stitchforming mechanism asufficient movement in the first-named direction to break the threadextending from the needle to the work and then a 65 return movement tostarting position.

3. A sewing machine adapted to sew a short seam and then come to rest,said sewing machine comprising a bed frame, work-holding means mountedthereon, a stitch frame, stitchforming 7O mechanism carriedthereby,means to give the stitch frame a feeding movement first in one directionand then in a reverse direction thereby to form two parallel lines ofstitches, means to bring the stitch-forming mechanism to rest at the endof the reverse movement, said firstnamed means operating after thestitch-forming mechanism has come to rest to give the stitch frame asecond movement in the first-named direction of sufficient extent tobreak the thread at the last stitch, and then a reverse movement tostarting position.

4. A sewing machine for sewing an imitation buttonhole comprising a bedframe, work-holding means mounted thereon, a stitch frame movable on thebed frame, stitch-forming mechanism carried thereby, a main cam,connections between the main cam and the stitch frame by which duringeach complete buttonhole cycle the stitch frame is moved first in onedirection and then in theopposite direction, and then is moved a secondtime in the first-named direction and back to the starting point, andmeans to bring the stitch-forming mechanism to rest at the end of thefirst reverse movement.

5. A sewing machine for sewing imitation buttonholes comprising a bedframe, work-holding means mounted thereon, a stitch frame movableforwardly and rearwardly on the bed frame for movement toward and fromthe front of the machine, stitch-forming mechanism carried by the stitchframe, means to give the stitch frame a forward movement from startingposition to stitching position and then a further forward movement and areturn movement to stitching position, means to start the stitch-formingmechanism in operation when the stitch frame first reaches stitchingposition and to bring the stitch-forming mechanism to rest when thestitch frame returns to stitching position, said firstnamed meansoperating after the stitch-forming mechanism has come torest to give thestitch frame a second forward movement sufficient to break the threadand then a return movement to starting position.

6. A sewing machine for sewing imitation button holes, said machinecomprising a work frame, work-clamping means mounted thereon and adaptedto clamp the work in position with an edge directed away from the frontof the machine, a stitch frame, a stitch-forming mechanism mountedthereon, means to give the stitch frame and work frame a relativemovement toward the front of the machine and away from said edge of thework and subsequently a return relative movement away from the front ofthe machine and toward said edge of the work, thereby to form twoparallel lines of stitching in the work, and means to bring thestitch-forming mechanism to rest at the end of the return relativemovement.

'7. A sewing machine for sewing imitation buttonholes, said machinecomprising a work frame, work-clamping means mounted thereon and adaptedto clamp the work in position with an edge directed away from the frontof the machine, a stitch frame, a stitch-forming mechanism mountedthereon, means to give the stitch frame and work frame a relativemovement toward the front of the machine and away from said edge of thework and subsequently a return relative movement away from the front ofthe machine and toward said edge of the work, means to rotate thestitch-forming mechanism between the forward and return relativemovements,

thereby to form two parallel lines of stitching in v the work connectedby a curved line and means the front of the machine and toward said edgeof the work, thereby to form two parallel lines of stitching in thework, and means to bring the stitch-forming mechanism to rest at the endof the rearward movement.

9. A sewing machine for sewing imitation buttonholes, said machinecomprising a work frame, work-clamping means mounted thereon and adaptedto clamp the work in position with an edge directed away from the frontof the machine, a stitch frame, stitch-forming mechanism mountedthereon, means to move the stitch frame on the work frame forwardlytoward the front of the machine and away from said edge of the work andsubsequently rearwardly away from the front of the machine and towardsaid edge of the work, thereby to form two parallel lines of stitchingin the work, and means to bring the stitchforming mechanism to rest atthe end of the rearward movement, said first-named means acting afterthe stitch-forming mechanism has come to rest to move the stitch frameagain forwardly toward the front of the machine a sufficient distance tobreak the thread at the last stitch, and then rearwardly to startingposition.

10. In a sewing machine for sewing two approximately parallel rows ofstitches connected at one end by a curved row of stitches thecombination with work-clamping means arranged to clamp the work adjacentthe edge thereof, of stitch-forming mechanism, means to give thestitch-forming mechanism and the work a relative movement away from theedge of the Work and then a return relative movement toward the edge ofthe work, and means to give the stitchforming mechanism a partialrotation between said relative movements whereby the curved connectingrow of stitches is at the end of the parallel rows furthest from theedge of the work and said rows extend from the curved row toward theedge of the work.

11. In a sewing'machine, the combination with work-clamping means forclamping material adjacent an edge thereof, of stitch-forming mechanism,means to give the stitch-forming mechanism and the material a relativefeeding movement first inwardly away from the edge of the material andthen outwardly toward the edge of the material, means to rotate thestitch-forming mechanism at the end of the inward relative movement andmeans to bring the stitch-forming mechanism to rest at the end of theoutward relative movement.

JOSEPH H. PIKUL.

